Vivo's Build

[Vivo]

Decided to start my own build thread. Hope it helps on some technical issues.
Sorry for the mistakes - English is not my native.
First of all I put the frame on the wheels .
From now on I can turn the frame where ever I need.
Then I had some "standart" attack frame work (watching build video, laughing, searching my own way to attach things) unfortunately didn't take pictures.

Later went on to the gauge cluster - It is lcd lexus style autogauge (it was far from playing with electrics, but I wanted gauges put in). Later I put some indicator lights. Not the prettiest but shpuld do thier work (I'm going to change thier positions later).

And Installed windshield to make sure everything here fits. Glued the glass to fiberglass frame with special windshield glue. Sits pretty tight.

[Vivo]

Sincle I'm running turbo set up - I've decided to go with the side vent intercooler. Treadstone had the size I needed.
But I had to cut some of the wheel well and close it with duraluminum peice.
And some grill mesh to finish the mods.
And also for aggresive driving I've added water sprays for direct cooling the intercooler. Electronics that controls it is completely adjustable - it sprays water for a few seconds over the given intervals of time. So I can have it working until the tank is empty for an up to an hour or so.

[Vivo]

Running turbo requeres oil cooling.
I've purchased universal oil cooler with H22 oil filter adapter.
And put it in the left side pod. Added two more universal air vents.

[Vivo]

As I mentioned at another thread I've decided to run cooling system pipes from the engine to radiator through the side pod and radiator to engine through the center console.
Engine to radiator pipe have two inner layer (up to 200C degrees) of some fiberglass insulation and two outer layer of soft insulation (up to 120C degree)
Radiator to engine four outer layer of soft insulation (up to 120C degree).
Radiator itself is Koyo Aluminum with High flow vents and a regulator for the vents.

[Vivo]

The throttle cable is 15 feet teleflex.
It's not so easily bent, so it goes through front hood. Not so pretty but it's strong and it doesn't have any adapters and goes up to the throttle body.

Fuel tank modified with the good quality adapter for the fuel pump (fuel pump itself is a wallbro 255 l/hour) and the vertical pipe fuel level sender. Now there will be no problems with the fuel tank seals.

Bought Hella's Super tone horns, hope I like the sound eventually.

[Vivo]

The passenger seat frame usual for the attack solidly bolted to the frame.
But the driver seats frame is combination of solid frame with the accord seat rails. So now I have adjustable driver seat. When it goes front it goes a little up, and to the rear lowers. some vodoo magic
I'll make some more photoes of the frame.

[Vivo]

And the brake system.
It has ABS, it has hydraulics hand brake, it has brake pressure regulators for the rear wheels. voodoo also
ABS is from accord with control unit. Sensors and rings at the wheels are standart accord - rear is standart, front requires some voodoo to fit.
Front calipers is 4 piston Wilwood, brake lines are all steel hard lines with flex lines at the calipers. Hydraulics hand brake is two wilwood cylinders connected to the accord hand brake. Park brake will be hidden with the electrical linear actuator.
Brake pressure regulators are also wilwood for the rear wheels since I have ABS the lines for all the wheels are separate.

[Vivo]

Some body work features.
Rear hood has gas strut and the hinges are from Cobra rear trunk (fits very easily).
Day time running lights LEDs is up to day mod.
Front and rear optics with the day time lights would be covered in 3d carbon film. So should have some good look.
Rear lights would be LED ones 120 USD for the pair quite a good price.

[Vivo]

Going to have a turbo so it will be fast. But also want it to be like a produstion car - so adding some vibro-noise-thermo insulation. It adds weight but should change the sound of car at the road.

[Vivo]

Rear suspension pieces and front A arms are sand sprayed and cowder coated into traffic orange it was made before I've settled with the color combination of the body (it's dark blue with matte black). When assembled I would decide on should I change the color of the A-arms or not.

[dis1]

All very impressive! Wow wow wow. A few questions/comments:

Can you do more pictures and explanation of what you are doing with the fuel tank. This is very interesting.

ABS huh? Wow, you must know a thing or two to get all that working right. Very impressive.

What is 3d carbon film? Do you put it on the lights?

Yes, more pics of your seat rails please. :-)

In your last pictures I see a sway bar. Do you plan on using the Accord sway bar in the rear? I didn't think this was the design? I think you would need one in the front for balance. What are your ideas here?

Overall thats a lot of progress. How long did all of this take?

[Vivo]

This build already took 2,5 years. and 4,5 years total with the home work for the project (planned to use 330 HP NA H22 engine but didn't receive the engine for that setup).

About the fuel tank - I'm thowing out the stock accord fuel level sending unit since it would be showing half of the tank level. I've bought the fuel level sender that has tube of about 450 mm (total hight of the tank) and some floating sensor. So I would monitor fuel level all the way to the top. And the stock fuel pump is replace but pump housing is left, and I made an adapter to fit this housing without any holes to seal.

3d carbon film is just a cosmetic adhesive film that would cover the light housing so they would look like they're made of carbon.

And yes i would make all round pics of the seat rail + some blue print alike picture.

About the ABS - it uses sensors at each wheel. When the wheel lock it stops sending pulse signals so the main unit start to pulse the brake pressure for that wheel. Quite simple. So having all the sensors in place and stock ABS pipe design - separate for each wheel we should have it working. Just need to put some adapter to the front wheel (like the axle) to accommodate ABS sensors and some pressure checking when it pulses (it shouldn't go higher 1000 psi or so as the wilwood calipers have such limit). That is the idea.

About the sway bar - do you think it's not needed in the rear suspension? Haven't thought about it.

[dis1]

Such great info! This is what forums are all about and this one is still alive! :-)

Can you give a part number/brand on your fuel level sender? That sounds like a great setup.

On the sway bars... yes, be careful. As I'm sure you know sway bars work like this. Stiffer in the front = more rear traction and less front traction. Same for the rear, stiffer rear bar = more front traction and less rear traction. So if you have a rear bar and no front bar you will probably be in trouble fast especially in a rear engine car. There is another thread somewhere on here saying bars shouldn't be needed for a car at this weight. I don't know if I agree but I would say that with no front bar a rear bar would be dangerous. I looked at the front a bit and I'm sure a front bar could be added with some work but I plan on no bars until maybe after I get it running and start racing it. If I feel unstable I might try to do something but I doubt it.

[Vivo]

Fuel level sender unit I've purchased from here
https://www.europaspares.com/product..._DIP_PIPE.html (404,5 mm option it's about 1or2 sm from the botton now )
I didn't measure Ohms readings on full and empty positions, i'll do that later. Fuel level gauge I bought is universal with different Ohms options.

Seat rail would be photoed today and I post it tomorrow.

As of yesterday I've attached radiator with fans and temp control unit - small step in build but a huge jump in the look

[Vivo]

So here is promissed seat rail.
We would need both seat rail from the donor accord.
I took both rails with the stoppers and cut the upper side so I have the rail itself only and the bottom attachment plates. The front attachment plate has to be hammered so it is 90 degrees to the rail. At the rear corner metal plate is welded in so I can attach seat from the sides. In the front I drilled the hole and attached the seat from the bottom (bolt hat has to be flat and thin in order for the rail to pass by). And since both seat rails are located at one side of the seats - the stopper handle at one side should be turned to the other side in order to have both handles face inside the seat.